New Tank Syndrome is one of the most common
ways your aquarium’s water turns bad. And this is very bad news, because it can
kill your fish.

What is New Tank Syndrome (NTS)? NTS is a fish disease that affects
aquariums with a high level of ammonia. This happens when there’s a problem
with your nitrogen cycle.

If you’re worried about New Tank Syndrome as an
aquarium owner, that’s good. It means you’re responsible and care about your
fish. So we’re going to help you save your fish from NTS.

1. New Tank Syndrome 101

If you want to save your fish from New Tank
Syndrome, you need to understand it. It’s important to know what causes NTS,
how to recognize it, and what you can do to save your fish from it.

We’re going to help you with all of that in
this section.

NTS
Cause

As part of your nitrogen cycle, ammonia is
formed when there’s waste in your aquarium. There are good bacteria in your biological filter media that feed on
the ammonia and turn them into nitrites.

New Tank Syndrome happens when there aren’t
enough of that bacteria.

This usually happens because you added fish to
your aquarium before the bacteria had a chance to grow. That’s why you should
rather start your nitrogen cycle before adding fish.

But NTS can also happen in mature aquariums. So
it isn’t only because you added fish to your tank too soon. Other reasons
include:

• You’re feeding your fish too much
  and/or too often
• There are too many fish in your
  aquarium compared to your filter size
• You haven’t used a de-chlorinator on
  your water
• You’ve been cleaning too much and
  removing bacteria
• Alternatively, you haven’t been
  cleaning enough and your biological filter media is clogged
• The water temperature and/or pH
  level has changed a lot very quickly

How
to Recognize NTS in Your Aquarium

You can’t simply look at your tank and see that
there’s too much ammonia. It would be great if it were that easy, though!

Ideally, if you have an aquarium, you also have
a test kit. You should be testing
your tank water every couple of days to check on ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. If you also have a pH
kit, then you should be using it too.

By testing properly, you’ll be able to prevent
NTS a lot better. We’ll take a look at ways to prevent NTS in the next section.

Your ammonia and nitrite levels should never be
more than 0.0ppm (parts per million). As soon as it becomes 1ppm, your fish
will start to develop NTS!

If your test kit is broken or you aren’t using
it, the only way you’re going to know that your fish are in danger of NTS is
when they start showing symptoms of ammonia poisoning. By that time, you need
to start doing treatment.

You can recognize NTS in your aquarium with
these symptoms:

• Your fish are gasping for air at the
  surface
• Your fish are moving very slowly or
  not at all
• They’re staying near to the bottom
  of the tank
• They have little or no appetite
• There’s inflammation of the anus,
  eyes, or gills
• You can see red streaks on your
  fish’s fins or gills (these are bloody veins)

Treatment
of NTS

Remember we said your fish are in danger of NTS
as soon as your ammonia and nitrite levels reach 1ppm? If this happens, you
need to act very quickly.

• Your first step is to make sure your
  filter is working properly. Accidents happen more often than we like to admit.
  Maybe you forgot to plug it back in after cleaning. But maybe you haven’t been
  cleaning enough and your filter is clogged!
• Secondly, you should stop feeding
  your fish for a few days. If they’re lethargic and not eating a lot, then any
  food you put into your tank is just going to become waste. Waste is what
  creates ammonia, so you’ll just be making the problem worse.
• Third, you should change the water. Not all of it, of
  course. But if you use water that has the same harness and temperature, then you
  can change up to 90% at a time. Usually, you should only change 10% to 25%, but
  NTS is an emergency case.
• You should always make sure that you
  add de-chlorinator to your water
  before putting it into your tank. Chlorine will kill bacteria, which is the last
  thing you want happening.
• Last, but not least, you need to add
  bacteria to your tank. A great way to do this is to use cycle products that are designed to boost bacteria growth.

BONUS:
2 More Quick Cures for NTS

Your fish are probably struggling to breathe
because of all the pollution in your tank. This is what leads to them gasping
for air at the surface.

There are two things you can do at this point.

1. First,
   you could add an air stone. This
   will increase oxygen levels. Not only will your fish be able to breathe easier,
   but bacteria too. That’s definitely a good thing.
2. The
   other thing you can do is add aquarium
   tonic salt. This will help to detoxify the nitrite in your tank.

If it’s a serious emergency, then your best
option is to move your fish into a tank that doesn’t have any problems. You
should keep them there until you’ve got your new aquarium’s nitrogen cycle
working again.

Even better, if you have two tanks, you should
have two filters running in both. If NTS happens, you can move one of the mature
filters into the problem tank. The bacteria in its biological filter media will
help to get rid of the ammonia and nitrites quicker.

2. Preventing New Tank Syndrome

Prevention is always better than the cure!
We’re sure you’ve heard that saying before. And it’s very true. So here are
some tips to help you prevent New Tank Syndrome.

Quick
Tips for NTS Prevention

• When buying a filter, choose one
  that has a large biological capacity. Ideally, it should be rated for more than
  the volume of your tank. But as long as it’s at least the right size for your
  aquarium, you’ll be safe.
• Always make sure that your filter is
  operating 24/7 from the moment you put it in, to the moment you replace it.
• Perform fishless cycling (see below)
  before you add your first fish.
• Use a filter from a mature aquarium
  (or its filter media).
• Never put too many fish into your
  tank or add more fish too quickly. Ideally, you should only add one or two new
  fish at a time.
• Don’t feed your fish too much or too
  often.
• Never use water that hasn’t been
  de-chlorinated first.
• Never wash your filter media under a
  tap! If you’re changing water at the same time, save the water you take out of
  your tank. Wash your filter media in it instead.

Maturing
Your Tank: Fishless Cycling

The best way to mature your tank is to start
your nitrogen cycle without any fish in the aquarium. This is more human for
your fish because it doesn’t put them in danger. The process is called fishless
cycling.

Again, you need to have a test kit so you can
check ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Ideally, you should also use a pH test kit too.

Once your water, filter, and decorations (and
plants if you have any) are in your tank, you’re ready to start. Make sure
you’ve added de-chlorinator to the water and that the temperature is 77°F to 86°F (25°C to 30°C). Bacteria grow best at these temperatures.

Ideally, you want to use a cycling product that adds ammonia to your
tank. You should also be using one that adds bacteria. But another option is to
use plants, ornaments, gravel, and/or filter media from a mature tank for the
bacteria. You can throw some fish food into the tank to rot and start producing
ammonia if you can’t afford cycling products.

Ammonia levels should rise to 4ppm until nitrites start forming. You can
keep adding more ammonia to keep it at that level until the nitrite starts
becoming nitrate.

Once nitrates start appearing, you can let your ammonia and nitrite
levels start to drop to 0ppm. If your nitrate levels reach 40ppm, start
changing more water. They should be down to 20ppm before you add fish to your
aquarium.

Remember to keep an eye on your pH levels
too. They shouldn’t drop below 7, otherwise ammonia starts turning into
ammonium. The bacteria that feed on ammonia can’t feed on ammonium!

Starter
Fish

It’s not always possible to start maturing your
tank before you add fish. Maybe you’ve already bought both and don’t have
anywhere else to put your fish while waiting for the nitrogen cycle to start.

That’s okay. While it’s not ideal, you can
start the cycle with certain types of fish in the tank. These fish are called starter fish. They’re hardier than
other kinds of fish. At worst, they should only get a bit sick during the first
cycle.

Starter fish include:

• Banded Gourmis
• Cherry or Tiger Barbs
• Most guppies
• Most minnows
• Pseudotrophius Zebra
• Pupfish
• White Clouds
• Z-Ray Tetras
• Zebra Danios

You should only feed them every second day
until ammonia and nitrite levels drop to 0ppm. Once that happens, you can start
feeding them once a day. You’ll also be able to start adding other types of
fish.

Just remember to introduce new fish one or two
at a time!

3. Conclusion

New Tank Syndrome only happens in new tanks,
right?

Wrong. The exact same thing can happen in
mature tanks. When it does, we call it Old Tank Syndrome (OTS) instead. OTS is
very similar to NTS, so you should still test your water regularly.

By following the steps we gave you to prevent
NTS, you can also prevent OTS. But just in case, we’ll be adding an article on how to save your fish from Old
Tank Syndrome in the future!

Read the original article at :
How to Save Your Fish from New Tank Syndrome (Bonus 2 More Quick Cures)

source https://aquariapassion.com/new-tank-syndrome/

1. A Simple Guide for Beginners

If you own an aquarium, then the nitrogen cycle is something you can’t ignore.
It’s one of the most important things to understand if you want to have a
healthy tank.

What is a nitrogen cycle? The nitrogen cycle is also called
the biological cycle. That’s because it’s how good bacteria in your tank get
rid of some of the waste in your tank. Fish waste creates ammonia, which gets
turned into nitrite and then into nitrate.

Still confused? Don’t worry. In this simple
guide for beginners, we’ll help you understand everything about the nitrogen
cycle.

2. Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle

To begin with, you need to know why the
nitrogen cycle is so important for your tank. We’ll also talk about how long it
lasts so you know what to expect.

Why
Your Aquarium’s Nitrogen Cycle is Important

In the next subsection, we’ll talk about the different
stages of the nitrogen cycle and how long the whole process takes. But first,
you need to know why it’s so important.

Remember how we said the nitrogen cycle turns
ammonia into nitrite and then into nitrate? That’s exactly why.

There’s lots of waste in your aquarium. Fish poop, extra food, dead pieces of plants and algae, dirty filter media, and even fish breath. These are all biological materials.

When they start to decay, they form ammonia. Ammonia is toxic to your fish and can make them sick. They may even die.

In your biological filter, there are lots of
bacteria. One type is called Nitrosomonas. These bacteria feed on ammonia. They then
create nitrites.

The problem with nitrites is that they can also
make your fish sick and die. Nitrites are very toxic to fish.

But there’s also some good news.

Nitrobacter is another type of bacteria that grows in your biological filter. As
part of the nitrogen cycle, Nitrobacter feeds on nitrites and turns them
into nitrates.

Nitrates are fish-friendly. However, too many nitrates can also be a bad thing. That’s one of the reasons you need to change your aquarium water every once in a while. Doing so will help to lower the nitrate levels in your tank.

[su_note note_color=”#e2e2e2″]You could also use nitrate remover for freshwater aquariums.[/su_note]

How
Long Your Nitrogen Cycle Lasts

The nitrogen cycle has a few different stages.
Let’s take a look at what they are:

1. You
   feed your fish. Any food that doesn’t get eaten becomes waste.
2. After
   your fish eat, they create solid waste when they poop.
3. If
   you have any plants or algae in your tank, dead pieces stay in the water. This
   is more waste.
4. All
   that waste builds up in your tanks. When it starts decaying, the waste creates
   ammonia.
5. Bacteria
   in your biological filter turn the ammonia into nitrite.
6. Different
   bacteria turn the nitrite into nitrate.
7. The
   plants in your tank use some of the nitrates to grow. This helps to remove some
   of the nitrates, but not all.
8. Your
   nitrate levels grow over time and you change the water.

That’s a very simple way of
understanding the nitrogen cycle. Obviously, more waste is being added all the
time. The process of turning ammonia into nitrite and then nitrate isn’t
instant. And you shouldn’t be changing your aquarium water every time you feed
your fish!

It can take anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months for your nitrogen cycle to complete. But that doesn’t mean you don’t have to be careful the whole time.

[su_note note_color=”#e2e2e2″]It’s a very good idea to buy an aquarium test kit. That way, you can keep an eye on ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels in your tank. [/su_note]

You should do a test every few days. When you notice that the nitrate levels are getting close to 20ppm (parts per million), it’s time to do a small water change. That’s because nitrates become toxic to fish at this point.

As a general rule, you should only
change 20% to 50% of your tank water at a time. Do this once every 1 to 4 weeks
while regularly testing your water.

3. Nitrogen Cycle Advice

Okay, so now you know what the nitrogen cycle
is! But you’re probably still confused about how to get it started and what to
do if it’s very slow.

That’s what we’re going to help you with here.

How
to Start the Nitrogen Cycle in Your Tank

You have two options for starting the nitrogen
cycle in a new tank: with fish and without fish. Let’s take a look at both.

Option 1: With Fish

We need to start by saying that this is not the best option.

There will be a lot of ammonia and nitrite in your aquarium, so your fish are going to be under a lot of stress. Depending on what type of fish they are, most of them might die.

But if you already put fish in your tank on the
first day, this is your only option. Hopefully, you have the type of fish that
can handle lots of ammonia and nitrites. Here’s a list of them:

• Banded Gourmis
• Cherry or Tiger Barbs
• Most guppies
• Most minnows
• Pseudotrophius Zebra
• Pupfish
• White Clouds
• Z-Ray Tetras
• Zebra Danios

[su_note note_color=”#e2e2e2″]Make sure you have a de-chlorinator to add to the water too. Chlorine will kill the bacteria that you want to grow.[/su_note]

You should also only feed your fish
once every two days until your cycle starts. Test the water regularly using your
test kit and change 10% to 25% of the tank water every 2 to 3 days.

Once your nitrogen cycle has
started, you can start adding more fish. Do this slowly, one or two fish at a
time only.

Option 2: Without Fish

This is the best way to start your nitrogen
cycle. It doesn’t put any fish in danger of getting sick or dying.

The easiest way is to put all your filters, decor, and plants into your tank. Don’t forget your de-chlorinator too! Keep the temperature at around 77°F to 86°F (25°C to 30°C) so bacteria can start to grow and put your filters on. Then put some fish food into the aquarium so it can rot and start creating ammonia.

A much better way is to use a cycling product as your ammonia source. You need to keep the ammonia levels in your tank at about 3 to 4ppm using your test kit. Test every other day and add more ammonia source if your levels drop.

After about a week, start testing for nitrite
too. Keep adding more fish food or cycling product so the levels stay at 3 to
4ppm. After a few weeks, you’ll see that the nitrite levels are also dropping.
That means your bacteria are turning them into nitrates.

At this point, you can stop adding ammonia.
Remember to still do a 10% to 25% water change once a week so you don’t have
too much nitrate.

When you have no more ammonia and nitrite, and
your nitrate levels are about 20ppm, congratulations! Your nitrogen cycle is
complete.

You can now safely add your fish.

How
to Speed Up Your Cycle

The first nitrogen cycle can take up to 2
months to complete. That seems like a long time to wait before you can put fish
into your aquarium.

So if you’re impatient, there are a few options
to speed up your cycle. These aren’t quick fixes though, so it’ll still take
about a month.

If you have a mature tank:

This is the best option. If this is your second
tank, you can:

1. Move
   your old filter (or even just the filter media) into your new tank;
2. Add
   some of the gravel from the old tank into the new tank;
3. Let
   your new filter run in the old tank for a while so the bacteria can colonize;
   and/or
4. Move
   some live plants (not plastic ones!) from your old tank into your new one.

If you don’t have a mature tank:

Don’t worry if this is your first tank! There
are still ways to speed up your nitrogen cycle:

1. Use
   live plants anyway. They probably won’t have any of the bacteria you need, but
   they’ll help to absorb ammonia;
2. If
   you buy your aquarium from a pet store, ask if they’ll give you some gravel
   from a mature tank. They won’t give you a lot, but every little bit helps;
   and/or
3. Use
   a cycling product, like the one we talked about in the last subsection. This is
   by far the best way to speed up your nitrogen cycle when starting out.

4. Related Questions

Now you know almost everything there is to know
about the nitrogen cycle. But of course, you might have some more questions.

That’s why we like to close off with a few
answers.

What
Happens if There’s Too Much Ammonia in My Tank?

Ammonia poisoning is a very serious threat to
your fish. That’s why you need to perform regular kit tests on your tank. You
can recognize ammonia poisoning in your fish with these symptoms:

• Fish gasping for air at the surface
• Little or no appetite
• Inflammation of the anus, eyes, or
  gills
• Red streaks on your fish’s fins
• Slow movement or not moving much
• Staying near the bottom of the tank

If you recognize any of these
symptoms or notice your ammonia levels are high when testing, you need to act
fast. Change more water than you usually do and change it more often.

What
Should I Do if My Fishless Aquarium’s Ammonia Levels Won’t Drop?

There are only 3 reasons a fishless tank’s
ammonia levels aren’t dropping:

• pH levels are too low
• There’s chlorine in the water
• You’ve been cleaning too often

Your pH level should be at least 7.
Otherwise, ammonia becomes ammonium. The bacteria that turns ammonia into
nitrite can’t feed on ammonium. Using a pH kit, you can increase the pH level
in your aquarium.

Chlorine kills bacteria. So you need
to make sure that you’re de-chlorinating your water before putting it into your
tank.

If you’re cleaning your tank too
often, you’re removing the bacteria from your rocks, gravel, filter media, and
decorations. So if your pH level is good and there’s no chlorine in your tank,
stop cleaning it for a little longer.

These same steps should be used if
you find your nitrite or nitrate levels aren’t rising properly.

What
Do I Do if My Aquarium’s Nitrogen Cycle Won’t Start?

By day 3, you should start seeing ammonia in
your tank when you do tests. Make sure your test kit isn’t faulty first, but if
there’s still nothing by day 5, your tank isn’t cycling.

Either there isn’t enough waste or starter
product, or there are too many plants. Add some more fish flakes or cycling
product. Keep trying and take some plants out if there’s still nothing.

How
Do I Deal with an Algae Bloom?

Starting the first nitrogen cycle in your
aquarium makes it ideal for algae. A little bit is okay – they’ll help ammonia
levels rise. But too much is never a good thing.

The first thing you should do is switch your
tank light off. Your plants need the light, so let them have some for a maximum
of 10 hours a day. Daylight will be fine. But outside of that, your light
should be off.

A CO₂ injector can also help. Make
sure you’re not over-fertilizing your tank either and you should see algae
levels drop.

As tempting as it is, don’t do a deep clean
just because of algae. You’ll have to start the cycling process from scratch if
you do.

5. Conclusion

Something to remember is that the nitrogen
cycle never ends. It repeats itself from the first day to the last.

That’s a good thing. Your aquarium needs its
nitrogen cycle to stay healthy.

But the journey is just beginning. You need to
properly maintain your biological filter media. And there’s something called
new tank syndrome that you need to be careful of. We’ll leave that for a new
post, though.

Read original article at: How to Master the Nitrogen Cycle of Your Aquarium.

source https://aquariapassion.com/nitrogen-cycle/

If you have an aquarium, or you’re thinking of
getting one, then you know filtration is very important. Without a good filter
in place, your tank water is going to get dirty very quickly. One of the most
important parts of your filtration system is the first: your mechanical filter.

So, which mechanical filter media are the best
available in 2019? Mechanical
filter media (MFM) is so important for having a healthy tank that there are a
lot of options out there. That can make it confusing for anyone trying to
decide on which type of MFM to use. Luckily for you, we’ve found 4 of the best.

Don’t worry if you’re an absolute beginner with
no idea what a mechanical filter is or why it’s so important. We’ve made this
guide to help you understand everything there is to know!

Best Mechanical Filter
Media Reviews

Where it gets incredibly tricky is that there
isn’t one type of MFM that’s best for everyone. What works the best for your
aquarium may not work so well for someone else.

There are just too many factors involved for
one MFM to be the best for all tanks. Things such as:

• Your filter type
• How big (or small) your aquarium is
• How many fish and plants you have
• The type of fish you have (and how
  big/small they are)
• Your filter’s (water) flow rate
• Your mechanical filter’s surface
  area
• How often you clean and/or replace
  your filter media

However, that doesn’t mean there aren’t some
mechanical filters that are better than others. Let’s take a look at the best 4
we’ve found for you.

1. Filter Pad(s)

Filter pads are easily the most common type of
MFM used in aquariums.

Because most aquarium filter pads are sold in a
roll, you can cut them to the right size for your tank. You also get filter
pads made from different type of media, with different levels of coarseness.

Aquarium
Filter Pads – Premium True Dual Density Aquarium Filter Media Roll for Crystal
Clear Water

[su_button url=”https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Filter-Pad-Premium-Density/dp/B01AHIOM8A/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=filter+pad&qid=1553944542&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1″ target=”blank” style=”flat” size=”6″ center=”yes” icon=”icon: hand-o-right”]Buy on Amazon[/su_button]

Aquatic Experts designed one of the best filter
pads. Their Premium True Dual Density Aquarium Filter Media Roll is thicker
than most others. That’s because it has 2 layers instead of just 1.

The top layer is made of open polyester fiber.
This part is what your water should flow through first, because it will catch
all the bigger debris in your tank. Things like extra fish food, solid fish
waste, and pieces of plants that have broken off will get stuck here.

Next, your water flows through the bottom layer.
This part is a lot finer, so that it can catch everything too small to get
trapped in the first layer.

[su_note note_color=”#e2e2e2″] The Premium Dual Density Aquarium Filter Media can be used in freshwater and marine tanks. While the product is very durable, the makers recommend changing your filter pad regularly to make sure your water stays crystal clear.[/su_note]

Pros:

– Because it comes in a roll, you can cut the
Premium Dual Density Aquarium Filter Media to the right size for your filter.

– The filter pad is able to trap every kind of
debris in your tank.

– Polyester fiber is very durable.

– Safe for your fishes.

– Because there are 2 layers, you won’t need to
buy 2 rolls in order to get a coarse and a fine MFM.

– Buying rolls instead of pre-cut filter pads
are a lot cheaper.

Cons:

– The Premium Dual Density Aquarium Filter
Media can make your flow rate slower.

– You need to change your filter pad regularly,
which can become expensive.

Interested in this product? Order the Premium True Dual Density Aquarium
Filter Media Roll on Amazon today!

2. Filter Floss

Filter floss gets its name because it looks a
lot like candy floss. It’s made of polyester fibers that have been bunched
tightly together so that it can trap even the smallest of debris, like solid
fish waste.

inTank
Bonded Blue & White Poly Filter Floss Pads 600-Square-Inches

[su_button url=”https://www.amazon.com/inTank-Aquarium-Pond-Value-600-square-inches/dp/B00B50UPE0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Filter+floss&qid=1553963439&s=gateway&sr=8-1″ target=”blank” style=”flat” size=”6″ center=”yes” icon=”icon: hand-o-right”]Buy on Amazon[/su_button]

Similar to the filter pads, inTank Bonded Blue
& White Polyester Poly Filter Floss Pads have 2 layers.

Water flows needs to flow through the coarse
white layer first, to catch larger debris. The blue layer is finer and is used
to catch the smaller debris that slips through the white layer.

Each filter floss pad is about 10-inches by
20-inches by 1-inch, though the thickness can be a little different depending
on which batch you get. However, you can also cut the pads to fit your filter.
So if your filter is smaller, you might be able to get 6 filter floss pads out
of the 3-pack.N

[su_note note_color=”#e2e2e2″]inTank Bonded Blue & White Poly Filter Floss Pads can be used in freshwater and marine aquariums, terrariums, or even in ponds. It only takes a few seconds to replace, which you may need to do once a week.[/su_note]

Pros:

– Because it comes in such a big size, you can
easily cut these poly filter floss pads to fit in any filter size.

– The dual-layer filter floss can trap almost
all debris and waste.

– The synthetic polyester fibers are very
durable.

– Safe for your fishes.

– Easy to replace.

Cons:

– You need to carefully monitor your water flow
rate, because inTank Bonded Blue & White Poly Filter Floss Pads can slow it
down.

– You need to rinse and reuse this product
every week, but you can only do this once or twice before you have to replace
it.

Interested in this product? Order the inTank Bonded Blue & White Poly Filter Floss Pads on Amazon today!

Or, check out another filter floss product:

Blue Ribbon Pet Products Polyester Floss Bag Filter Media for Aquarium

[su_button url=”https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ribbon-Products-Polyester-Aquarium/dp/B00DDZ5GT4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Filter+floss&qid=1553963439&s=gateway&sr=8-2″ target=”blank” style=”flat” size=”6″ center=”yes” icon=”icon: hand-o-right”]Buy on Amazon[/su_button]

The Blue Ribbon Pet Products ABLPLY7 Polyester
Floss Bag Filter Media is more like a traditional floss filter. Unlike the
inTank Bonded Blue & White Poly Filter Floss Pads (above), this product
hasn’t been turned into a pad.

You do need to have a mesh filter bag to put
this polyester floss into your filter, though. If you pack it tightly enough,
you won’t need to use any other MFM.

Most people use this filter floss as a second
MFM rather than alone. If you want to do the same, then you should also buy the
Aquarium Experts’ Premium True Dual Density Aquarium Filter Media Roll (above).
You could also use a sponge instead (see below).

[su_note note_color=”#e2e2e2″]Depending on how much of the Blue Ribbon Polyester Floss you use, it can good for either big debris (packed loosely) or small debris (packed tightly). If you’re using it loosely, then 1 bag can last you for a long time.

The biggest let-down of this product is that you can’t rinse and reuse it, unfortunately.[/su_note]

Pros:

– Easy to use.

– Cheaper than buying filter pads, especially
if you pack it tightly as a fine filter.

– If you use it as a medium filter (packed
loosely), it will last longer.

Cons:

– If you do use it as a medium filter, you need
to buy filter pads or sponge as a pre-filter.

– This product will only work in HOB and
canister filters.

– You can’t rinse and reuse Blue Ribbon
Polyester Floss, so you’ll need to replace it when you notice that it’s
becoming too clogged.

Interested in this product? Order the Blue Ribbon Polyester Floss Bag Filter Media on Amazon today!

3. Sponge

[su_note note_color=”#e2e2e2″]Sponges are sometimes used as a biofilter media (BFM), but it’s more common to use them as an MFM. You do need to be careful about what sponges you use, though.[/su_note]

Because sponges are graded according to their
pores per inch (PPI) count, this is fairly easy though. For filtering large
debris, you need a 10 PPI sponge. 30 PPI sponges are best as a fine filter, for
small debris.

You need to stay within this range, though.
Anything with a higher PPI will clog too easily.

LTWHOME
Fish Pong Foam Filter Sponge Set 17” X 11” Media

[su_button url=”https://www.amazon.com/LTWHOME-Fish-Filter-Sponge-Media/dp/B00CGTTFS6/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=sponge&qid=1553943369&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-13″ target=”blank” style=”flat” size=”6″ center=”yes” icon=”icon: hand-o-right”]Buy on Amazon[/su_button]

The LTWHOME Fish Pong Foam Filter Sponge Set is perfect for using as an MFM or as a dual purpose MFM + BFM filter.

You’ll notice that there are 3 sponges included
in the set: green, black, and blue. The green sponge is fine (small debris),
the black medium, and the blue coarse (large debris). It’s a good idea to use
all 3 even if you have a separate BFM in place.

Simply cut the sponges down to size so they fit
into your filter. Put the blue one in so that water flows through it first,
then the black one, and the green one last.

Some people have complained that the blue and
black sponges are exactly the same and that the green is actually medium, not
fine. If you are worried about this, then you can combine the LTWHOME Fish Pong
Foam Filter Sponge Set together with a filter pad.

[su_note note_color=”#e2e2e2″]The LTWHOME Fish Pong Foam Filter Sponge Set can be used in freshwater and marine tanks. However, you do need a canister filter to use these. They don’t work very well with HOB cartridge filters.[/su_note]

Pros:

– You can cut the sponges smaller and make 2
sets if your filter size is right.

– You can use the LTWHOME Fish Pong Foam Filter
Sponge Set as an MFM, BFM, or even both at the same time.

– This product can be used in freshwater and
marine tanks.

– You can rinse these sponges in aquarium water
(not tap water) and reuse them until they start to tear.

Cons:

– Some people complain that the blue and black
sponges are both the same coarseness and that the green is actually medium.

– You can only use this product if you have a
canister filter, as it doesn’t work very well with HOB cartridge filters.

Interested in this product? Order the LTWHOME Fish Pong Foam Filter Sponge Set on Amazon today!

Related Questions

We’ve helped you find the 4 best MFM for 2019,
but maybe you still have some questions. Don’t worry – we’ve got the answers!

What
is Mechanical Filtration?

There are 3 types of filters that can (and
should) be used in your aquarium:

• Mechanical
  Filtration
• Biological
  Filtration
• Chemical
  Filtration

In the same way that water moves through a fish
net but fish are caught, water passes through your MFM but debris is caught.
The MFM is used to trap this debris, such as solid fish waste and leftover fish
food.

Water continues to flow through the other
filters. When the water has passed through all your filter media, it’s pushed
back into your aquarium. By this point, it should be nice and clean.

In
What Order Should I Use Mechanical Filtration Media?

Your mechanical filter is the first part that
your water needs to flow through.

MFM is one of the most important filter layers.
You have to have MFM in your filter, otherwise your biofilter (the other most
important layer) isn’t going to work properly.

As you can probably tell, your BFM will be second.
Once your MFM has trapped all the large and small debris in your tank water,
your BFM will take care of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

Don’t know why we need to take care
of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? Click here to read the guide!

Lastly, after your BFM, your water will go
through a chemical filter. Your chemical filter will take care of other toxins
that your MFM and BFM can’t filter for you. A chemical filter isn’t always
necessary, but it’s always best to have all 3 types of filter media.

Can
I Really Use Sponge as a Mechanical and Biological Filter Media at the Same
Time?

Yes!

This is called “dual purposing,” and if done
right can save you some money. However, you do need to use extra sponges, not
just one.

For example, if you use the LTWHOME Fish Pong
Foam Filter Sponge Set, you should use all 3 sponges. Ideally, if your filter
is small enough that you can cut the sponges in half, you should use 4 layers.

The coarser sponges (10 to 15 PPI; blue and
black) will act in place of an MFM. Third, you should have the green sponge
twice (2 halves, back-to-back). This will act as a BFM.

If you do decide to dual purpose, you need to be careful to test your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.

If dual purposing isn’t working properly, you
can still use a sponge as an MFM, but will need to get a separate BFM.

When dual purposing, you should also clean your
sponges at different times.

How
Often Do I Need to Change My Mechanical Filter Media?

This depends on what type of MFM you’re using.

It is very important that you do change your
MFM, though. Some people make the mistake of thinking that you don’t need to.
If you don’t change your MFM, it will get clogged. When that happens, your flow
rate will eventually stop. Your tank water will get dirty very quickly.

Another problem with not changing your MFM is
that no oxygen reaches your BFM. This causes your bacteria to die. The debris
stuck in your MFM will also start to decompose and more toxins will be released
into your tank.

Always carefully read the instructions on the
packaging of your MFM to see how often you should clean or change them.

As a general rule, you should rinse filter pads
and sponges once a week. Filter floss needs to be replaced as often. If your
aquarium water is very clean, you might be able to wait 2 weeks though.

Remember that most filter pads can only be
rinsed and reused once or twice before you need to replace them. Sponges can be
reused many times – until you start noticing that the sponge is starting to
tear.

Read more at: What Are the Best Mechanical Filter Media? 2019 Review.

source https://aquariapassion.com/best-mechanical-filter-media/

Biological filter media (BFM) is a part of your
tank filtration system made to help good bacteria grow safely. These bacteria
are a very important part of your filter. But to help them keep your aquarium
healthy, you need the best BFM you can get.

So, what are the best biological filter media? BFM can be a little complicated to
understand. There are so many different types that it can be confusing for
beginners at first. But we’ve found the 4 best biological filter media to help
you decide on the right one for your tank.

Biological filtration has been a big discussion
point for a long time. It’s a very general term that describes many types of
water filtration using bacteria. Most people only think about removing ammonia
and nitrite when it comes to biofiltration. But reef aquarists think about
lowering nitrate levels biologically too. We’ll be covering it all.

Best Biological Filter
Media Reviews

There are many different kinds of BFM
available. Most of them are made from either plastic, natural minerals, or
man-made ceramics.

In this review, we’re going to look at the best
of each to help you decide which one is the right one for your tank.

Marineland Canister Filter Bio-Balls

Marineland makes these canister filter
“bio-balls,” which are a traditional nonporous plastic BFM.

Water is able to flow freely over and through the bio-balls. This makes it perfect for supporting the type of bacteria that feed on ammonia and nitrite. However, because it’s nonporous, it can’t filter nitrate.

Read more:

If you have a freshwater aquarium, with or without plants, and a canister filter, then these bio-balls are perfect for you. They never need to be replaced.

Pros:

• Marineland Canister Filter Bio-Balls never get dirty
• You never need to replace them if properly maintained.
• They’re not expensive.
• Bio-balls work very well for ammonia and nitrite.
• Perfect for freshwater tanks.
• Can also be used for marine aquariums with no plants.

Cons:

• The
  bio-balls cannot help regulate nitrate.

Fluval BioMax Bio Rings

Bio rings are usually made of silica and
aluminum oxide. This combination makes for a very porous biofilter media.

Fluval BioMax Bio Rings are the best example on
the market. Their internal porous system, like the Seachem Matrix BioMedia (see
below), help more bacteria to grow than smooth biofilter media do.

The ring shape allows for water to flow through
the biofilter media. This helps to make sure that bacteria are able to colonize
much quicker. Fast colonization is very important for new aquariums or if
you’ve just finished a deep clean.

Read more:

Fluval BioMax Bio Rings are perfect for dealing
with ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in your tank. It can be used in any kind of
aquarium.

Pros:

• You can use Fluval BioMax Bio Rings as a loose BFM in canister filters.

• If you don’t use a canister filter, you can also put Fluval BioMax Bio Rings into a filter bag.

• Fluval BioMax Bio Rings are relatively inexpensive.

• Perfect for nitrification and denitrification.

• You can use Fluval BioMax Bio Rings in freshwater, marine, and reef tanks.

Cons:

• Unlike other BFM, Fluval BioMax Bio Rings need to be replaced every 6 months.

Seachem
Matrix BioMedia 1 Liter

The Seachem Matrix is a bio media made of solid
pumice that has been processed into 10mm pebbles. It has a rough surface, which
is perfect for bacteria.

According to Seachem, 1 liter of their Matrix
bio media gives you the same amount of surface area as 170 liters of plastic
ball alternatives. That’s because plastic balls only give you an external
surface area. Seachem Matrix, on the other hand, also gives you an internal
“macroporous” surface area.

What’s very good about this product is that
unlike other media, the macropores are big enough for nitrifying and
denitrifying bacteria. This means it can remove ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate
at the same time.

Read more:

Seachem Matrix can be used in any kind of tank.
You only need 250ml for up to 25 gallons of water. 1 liter can be used for up
to 100 gallons.

Pros:

• You can use Seachem Matrix in a filter bag or loose.

• Seachem Matrix never needs to be replaced.

• You can rinse the matrix without harming the bacteria.

• It removes ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

Cons:

If you’re using a drip tray system, you may need to use a larger Pond Matrix instead.

EHEIM
Substrat Pro Biological Filter Media (Sintered Pearl-Shaped Glass) 1L

Substrat Pro is a type of BFM material from
Germany. Porous beads of glass are made by compressing (also known as “sintering”)
very fine glass particles together. The process of sintering determines how
porous the beads are.

Laboratories have used sintered glass similar
to Substrat Pro to grow bacteria in a controlled environment. It’s a very good
medium for this.

That’s why EHEIM decided to take the process
and make their sintered pearl-shaped glass beads for aquarium filtration.

Read more:

Even though EHEIM also makes their own range of
biofilter canisters, you can use the EHEIM Substrat Pro BFM in any canister
filter’s tray. This product is best for larger canisters in both freshwater and
marine fish tanks.

Pros:

• Glass
  beads won’t break down in your aquarium.
• You
  can easily clean the beads by rinsing them off.
• Removes
  ammonia, nitrate, and nitrate.
• You
  can use the EHEIM Substrat Pro in freshwater and marine tanks.

Cons:

• Can
  be a little expensive.

Related Questions

You probably have a few more questions now that
you know what the best BFM are. Don’t worry: we have the answers right here!

Why
Do I Need a Biological Filter?

Bacteria grows everywhere in your aquarium. On
the glass, on your gravel, even on any ornaments you have in your tank.

So you might be wondering why you need a
biofilter at all if the bacteria is already everywhere. But it’s very important
for you to have one in place.

That’s because when you clean your aquarium’s
glass, rinse your gravel, scrub your ornaments, or even change lots of water at
a time, you disturb that bacteria. When your bacteria is disturbed or too much
is removed too quickly, you lose some of your natural biofilters.

Your BFM is meant to act as a safe home for the
bacteria that feed on ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Even if you have to do a
deep clean because your tank got neglected, the bacteria in your biofilter will
keep working to keep your aquarium healthy.

Too much ammonia, nitrite, or even nitrate can
be deadly for your fish and plants. So these bacteria are your friends. Your
BFM helps you to look after them.

After a deep clean, there’s very little or even
no bacteria left on your glass, ornaments, and gravel. Even the loose bacteria
that floats in your water is gone.

The bacteria in your biofilter makes more
bacteria that colonize the rest of your tank for you.

In
What Order Should I Use Biological Filter Media (BFM)?

You should always put your BFM in the cleanest
part of your filtration system.

If you don’t let water flow through your
mechanical filter first, the bigger, heavier particles will settle in and on
top of your biofilter. All the sludge and debris, like solid fish waste and
uneaten fish food, will clog up your BFM.

When this happens, you’ll have a lot of
nitrite-friendly bacteria taking over the bacteria that feeds on nitrate. This
is very bad for your fish.

That’s why you should always make sure the
water flows through your mechanical filter first. This way, you can clean or
replace the mechanical filter without disturbing the good bacteria in and on
your biofilter.

If
I Use More Than 1 BFM Type, in What Order Should I Put Them?

You don’t actually need to use more than 1 BFM
type if you use a product that deals with ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.
However, if you use something that doesn’t affect ammonia, you’re going to need
to add at least 1 more type.

In this case, it’s doesn’t really matter what
order you put your BFM in……..

If you’re using a canister filter, you can mix
the loose BFM together if you choose. The same is true for using filter bags.
Just be careful mixing 2 types of BFM, as some (like the Fluval BioMedia Bio
Rings) do need to be replaced while others don’t. If 1 of your BFM does need to
be replaced but the other doesn’t, it’s going to be easier for you not to mix
them.

How
Much BFM Do I Need to Use?

This can be a little tricky to answer. Even
though some manufacturers will tell you how much BFM to use per gallon of
water, not all of them do. This is because a lot of BFM is prepackaged for a
specific type of filter.

That means there’s no one answer to this
question. How much BFM you really need depends on a lot of things. For example,
the size of your fish and how much food you give them can affect how much BFM
you need.

The best way to see how much BFM you need is to
use the amount the manufacturer suggests. Carefully monitor your ammonia,
nitrite, and nitrate levels and add more media if you need to.

Don’t know how to test those levels? Check out this guide.

Can Sponge Be Used as BFM?

While some people suggest only using sponges as
mechanical filter media, you can actually use them as BFM as well.

Link to: Other kind of MFM

You need to be careful using sponges for
mechanical and biological filter layers at the same time, though. This is
called “dual purposing.” If you are dual purposing, then you need to use more
than one sponge at the same time.

Just as importantly, you need to make sure that
the sponges you use when dual purposing have different degrees of coarseness.
You can’t use the exact same type of sponge as a mechanical and a biological
filter at the same time. This won’t filter your water properly.

When dual purposing, put the most coarse sponge
first as a mechanical filter. The finer sponges work very nicely as BFM if need
be.

You should also be careful to clean these
sponges at different times. Otherwise, you’re going to disturb your bacteria.

Be very careful when buying sponges to use in
your aquarium. It doesn’t matter if you want to use them for mechanical
filtration, biofiltration, or both. Some sponges aren’t safe to use as any kind
of filter.

Take a look at this YouTube video to find out how to see if a sponge brand is
safe for your aquarium.

How Often Do I Need to Change My BFM?

With most BFM, you don’t ever need to change or
replace them at all. As you saw with 3 of the BFM we reviewed above, all you
need to do is rinse them off.

However, if you’re using the Fluval BioMedia
Bio Rings, you’ll need to replace some of them every 6 months. Sometimes, you
make need to change them more often.

The only other time you might need to replace
your BFM is if you’re using sintered glass, like the EHEIM Substrat Pro. And
even then, you only need to change them if the beads do start to break down.
But that should never happen in a healthy tank.

Normally, even if your aquarium was neglected
and you need to do a deep clean, you can keep the same BFM.

Instead of changing your BFM, just give it a
rinse if your water flow rate is too slow. You should also rinse your BFM if
you notice that there is a lot of fish waste and dirt building up.

Never rinse your BFM
under the tap, though. The chlorine will kill all your bacteria. Instead, use
some of your aquarium water to rinse your BFM.

Do I Really Need a Mechanical Filter
and Chemical Filter if I Use a Lot of BFM?

All 3 filter types – mechanical, biological,
and chemical – are recommended. However, at the very least, you should always
have both a mechanical and biological filter in place.

That’s because they serve very different
purposes. While you can dual purpose by using sponges as both mechanical and
biological filter media, as mentioned earlier, you still need to use several
different sponges.

If you decide to use a biological filter
without a mechanical filter, your BFM is going to become clogged very quickly.
You should always have a mechanical filter before your BFM to prevent this from
happening by capturing all the bigger debris.

Otherwise, your tank is going to have too much
nitrite, which is very bad for your fish.

The chemical filter isn’t absolutely necessary,
but it’s always a good idea to have all 3 filter types. Chemical filters are
placed behind the mechanical and biological filters, so it’s the last filter
your water flows through.

All the things that mechanical and biological
filters cannot take care of, chemical filters do. This includes undissolved
material that can make your tank water cloudy or smell bad.

---

Read more at: The Best Biological Filter Media in 2019.

source https://aquariapassion.com/best-biological-filter-media/

Biological balance is the key to a healthy
aquarium and bacteria plays an important part it that balance. Changing your
filter can sometimes make you lose bacteria, though. And when it does, your
water quality can crash.

So, how to change your filter without losing
bacteria? The only
way to make sure you don’t lose too much bacteria when changing your filter is
to colonize the new filter. There are 3 ways to do this. All of them have one
thing in common: the old filter’s media.

We’ll take a look at all 3 ways to change your aquarium filter without losing bacteria. And we’ll help you understand why bacteria is actually a good thing for your fish.

3 Ways to Change Your
Aquarium Filter Without Losing Bacteria

As mentioned earlier, there are 3 ways to
change your aquarium filter without losing bacteria. All 3 methods are very
simple, but will save you from a tank disaster that can be difficult to fix.

With all 3 methods, you’ll need to keep your
old filter’s media. Ideally, it will stay in your aquarium with the new filter
for a month. This is to help the new filter to cultivate the bacteria necessary
for a healthy tank.

Before you buy a new filter, you do need to ask
yourself if you really need one. As long as your old filter still works, you
probably don’t.

If you need a stronger water flow rate, it’s
usually a better option to buy a second, smaller filter. You can use it with
the old filter at the same time.

Leave
Your Old Filter in With the New One

Leaving your old filter in your tank with the
new one for at least a month seems like the easiest option. After all, all you
need to do is put the new one in.

This method does help to colonize your new
filter with the bacteria from the old one. But you must keep a careful eye on
your flow rates. Too much flow will disturb your fish, especially if they are
small, young, or are betta fish. A flow rate that is too fast for them will
cause your fish stress from having to swim against the current.

If you have live plants in your aquarium,
you’ll also need a slower flow rate. This helps to keep carbon dioxide levels
healthy.

You can use filter pads to slow your flow rate
down if need be. The old filter can actually be left in your tank permanently
unless it is broken or you only want to keep one filter.

Reuse
the Old Filter’s Media

Another option is to take the old filter’s
media and put it into your new filter. The media is where a lot of the bacteria
is. This way, you don’t have to worry about losing that bacteria. You probably
won’t replace all your filter media at the same time, so new media will have
time to be colonized.

The only problem with this method is that your
old and new filters need to use media that are the same size and shape. If the
old filter’s media won’t fit into the new filter, this method won’t work.

Your media also needs to be in good condition.
Media that is falling apart cannot be reused, of course.

Try to keep the old media in your tank for at
least one month before changing any of it.

Colonize
the New Filter

If you don’t want to or can’t run two filters
at the same time and your old filter’s media doesn’t fit your new filter, there
is a third option.

When you take the old filter out, keep its
media. As long as they aren’t falling apart, you can simply put them next to
the new filter. Over the next month, the bacteria from the old media will
colonize your new filter for you.

While you can usually keep two filters in your
tank permanently, or reuse the old media in your new filter until it starts falling
apart, this method should only be used for one month. After that month is over,
you must take the old media out.

Understanding Biological
Balance

If you’re a beginner, you may be wondering why
you need bacteria in your tank in the first place. When we think of bacteria,
we usually think of things that make us sick. And we don’t want to make our
fish sick, right?

But yogurt is an example of good bacteria that
can help us stay healthy. In the same way, there are good bacteria in our
aquariums that help keep our aquariums and our fish healthy too.

For example, some bacteria feed on fish waste
and uneaten fish food. Other bacteria feed on nitrate and ammonia, which helps
to keep them at a healthy level.

Bacteria helps to create biological balance.
It’s the number 1 way for your tank to get rid of waste. This is why you should
have a biofilter in your aquarium.

Biological
Filtration

Biological filtration helps to keep things in
balance. In nature, this balance usually happens without needing our help. But
in an aquarium, we need to be careful to make sure we create that balance for
our fish.

You might think that if you have a 1,000-gallon
tank with only one small fish in it, you have a stronger biofilter capacity
than a 10-gallon aquarium with the same fish.

But actually, the biofilter capacity will be the exact same. This is because the bacteria need waste to feed. It doesn’t matter how big or small your tank is, that one small fish can only create a small number of bacteria.

The biofilter size will be the same no matter
what your tank size. After all, it cannot get bigger than the available “food”
for the bacteria is.

If some of your fish die or you move them to
another tank, the bacteria levels will also start to drop. With less fish,
there’s less waste, so some of the bacteria will die because they aren’t
getting enough food. When you put more fish into your tank, the bacteria levels
will rise again.

Common
Misunderstandings

Having an aquarium can be a fun and beautiful
experience. Unfortunately, too many new aquarists don’t do proper research.
They come across some common misunderstandings and think they’re true.

When it comes to biofilters, there are two in
particular that are very common:

• Bacteria that feed on nitrite and
  ammonia only live in the filter.
• Most good bacteria in a tank are
  found in the filter’s media, such as the bio rings  and filter sponge.

This makes new tank owners think that changing
their filter will always lead to a biological crash. They become too scared to
change their filter because they think they’ll lose all their good bacteria.

Luckily, this isn’t true. As long as your
aquarium is healthy and your filter is working properly, you’ll find good
bacteria everywhere. Even the water and tank glass have bacteria on it. Your
aquarium’s gravel, ornaments, and plastic plants also have bacteria.

The
Truth

Because of those common misunderstandings, a
lot of people think that the biofilter is a “safe haven” for good bacteria.
They believe that only bad bacteria are able to live in other areas of their
aquariums.

But when scientists used a Scanning Electron
Microscope to study the biology of aquariums, they found that good bacteria is
indeed found everywhere. They even tried to make the biological balance crash
on purpose by putting in new filters without first colonizing them. That’s
because the filter media doesn’t have more bacteria than any other part of the
tank. They actually have exactly the same amount.

While this crash can sometimes happen, it
doesn’t happen very often. It’s only when your tank is already unhealthy that
changing the filter causes a crash.

Even though it is safe to change your filter without colonizing the new media, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. Using 1 of the 3 methods we introduced to you is still considered best practice. After all, you still lose some bacteria otherwise.

Related Questions

Now you know how to change your aquarium filter
without losing too much bacteria. You also know that as long as your tank is
healthy, it’s okay if you forget to colonize the new filter.

But of course, you may still have a few
questions.

After all, if the bacteria live everywhere in
your tank, why do you still end up with bad water quality after changing your
filter?

There are 3 reasons this usually happens. We’ll
take a look at all of them.

What
Mistakes Happen With New Aquariums?

If you’ve just gotten your first aquarium,
we’re sure you’re excited about it! For the first while, your tank is looking
perfectly healthy and clean. The biofilter is being built as bacteria starts to
grow and feed on waste.

But then you see some algae starting to grow
too. You begin to panic because you think it’s bad for your tank.

While too much algae are definitely bad for
your aquarium, a little bit is perfectly fine. But if you’re still a beginner,
you might not know this. Instead of keeping an eye on your algae growth, you
decide to clean everything.

This is where the problem starts.

By changing all your aquarium water at once,
scrubbing every surface, and changing your filter media, you interrupt the
biological balance. The biofilter never develops properly because you’re not
allowing it to.

When this happens, all the waste that your good
bacteria is supposed to take care of stays in the water. This makes it cloudy.
Your aquarium may even start to smell and your fish start to get sick.

So you become worried and start over with new
filters, new water, and by scrubbing everything again. The only problem is,
that’s what caused the issue in the first place.

Instead, you should leave your tank to regulate
itself for a month. It will probably look dirty for a few weeks, but that’s
okay. During those first 30 days, your biofilter is growing. Letting it do so
will help make sure your aquarium stays healthy in the future.

When
is a Deep Clean Bad?

Doing a deep clean every now and then is good
for your tank. There is some waste that bacteria can’t take care of and your
filter media only last for a certain amount of time. For example, activated
carbon needs to be changed once a month.

Siphoning your gravel, changing the water, and
replacing filter media is very good practice. But if you do so too often,
especially all at the same time,
this can end up being very bad for your tank.

That’s because it disturbs your biological
balance too much.

Bacteria that feed on ammonia and nitrite
usually grows on the top level of your gravel. The bacteria that feed on sludge
grows on the bottom layer. Too much of this second type can be a bad thing and
lead to algae.

But cleaning your gravel can cause cloudy
water. You panic and change your media filter and/or water. This takes away the
bacteria that is supposed to help your gravel bacteria colonize to a healthy
level again. The cloudy water is actually just small debris from the gravel
that will settle after a little while.

It’s much better to do smaller gravel cleans
more often instead of one deep clean every month or 2. This helps to makes sure
you don’t accidentally lose too much bacteria.

What
Should I Do if My Aquarium Was Neglected?

Sometimes, even the best of us get a little
lazy with cleaning our tanks. Or maybe we’ve been too busy to do it properly in
a while. Perhaps you went away for a few weeks and nobody was looking after
your aquarium for you – or they didn’t do so properly.

While it’s okay to be lazy every now and then,
it becomes a problem when your tank becomes neglected. By the time you realize
there’s something wrong, your filter media is usually clogged with slime and
making a horrible noise. It’s struggling to filter your water.

This slime and sludge make algae grow faster.
Even worse, it releases hydrogen sulfide, which is very bad for your aquarium.

The problem is, if you do a deep clean, you’ll
end up losing all the good bacteria too.

What you should do instead is make small changes. Make sure your filter is still in good condition and change the media first. This will help aerate your tank. Clean your aquarium glass slowly and carefully. Otherwise, you’ll send algae particles into the water and clog your filter again.

Take any ornaments out to clean them
separately. And instead of doing one big water change, do smaller changes over
a few weeks. Lastly, clean your aquarium gravel again. This can also be done
while changing water.

Be careful to test your ammonia, nitrite, and
pH levels every week during this cleaning period.

Read original article at: How to Change Your Filter Without Losing Bacteria.

source https://aquariapassion.com/how-to-change-your-filter-without-losing-bacteria/

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